Mustang Writeups Archives - Mike Ford Mustang

How To Install Dynamat (Sound Deadening) on your Mustang

Mike — Mon, 26 Oct 2026 18:50:34 +0000

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Reducing Road Noise in a Mustang Convertible

With the top up and windows rolled up, Mustang convertibles are noisy cars. The trunk has very little (almost no) sound deadening, and the only thing separating the trunk from the passenger compartment is a sheet of oilcloth (the convertible top’s well liner) and a fiberglas panel (the inner trunk liner). You have to live with a lot more road noise than you do in a coupe.

I decided to look into sound dampening products to reduce this road noise, and I settled on the Dynamat Extreme Trunk Kit (P/N 19405) which contains five 18″ x 32″ pieces of Dynamat Xtreme sound deadener. The sheets consists of a paper release layer, a sticky layer of butyl, and an aluminum backing. It can be cut to shape with scissors before peeling off the paper backing and applying it to metal surfaces.

The MSRP on this kit is $140, but I had no trouble finding an on-line store selling it for $70. There are many cheaper substitutes to consider. But the alternative products I looked at were generally heavier, not as sticky or easy to apply, and they had a strong petroleum smell. Dynamat Extreme has no smell, goes on easily, and weighs 0.45 lb/sq.ft., or 9 lbs for the 20 sq.ft. in this trunk kit.

It took four sheets to apply one layer of dynamat to the trunk floor (shown above). I put the remaining full sheet on the smooth back of the fiberglass interior trunk panel. (shown below).

I don’t know if applying this last sheet made any significant difference, but I wanted to make sure that the fiberglass trunk liner does not vibrate and transmit noise like a speaker into the passenger compartment.

I am pleased with the results. With the trunk liner and mat back in place you can’t see any of the sound deadener, road noise has been reduced considerably in my car when the top and windows are up, and I’ve only added 9 lbs. to the weight of the car. If I was buying this car again, this is one of the mods (along with my Tri-Ax shifter and Global West subframe connectors) that I would probably do as soon as I got the car home from the dealer.

found @ http://www.miracerros.com/mustang

The post How To Install Dynamat (Sound Deadening) on your Mustang appeared first on Mike Ford Mustang.

How To Add Stripes to your Mustang

Mike — Mon, 26 Oct 2026 18:50:34 +0000

Materials:
Water
Spray bottle
Dishwasher Detergent
Squeegee
Tape Measure
Electrical tape
Scissors
10mm nut driver (If you want to remove spoiler)
Another human

1.) First thing you want to do is wash the car real good, and if wax is on there make sure its removed.

2.) Now I did mine in the garage with plenty lights on a warm day, I wouldn’t suggest doing it on a sunny day if your going to do it outside, but I would do it on a warm day, 60-90 degrees. Do not park where leaves or a lot of pollen would land on your car, it will get annoying to keep it clean. Have everything setup and ready, have a place to keep cutting pieces easily, have spray bottle ready and squeegee.

3.) There will be 7 sections of striping for 99-04, 1 front fender, 3 on hood, 1 roof, 1 trunk, 1 spoiler.

4.) I started with the hood, the section in front of the hood scoop. You have to find the center of the car, measure the end of the hood on both side to find center (I marked everything with electric tape, it wont harm anything, should be right after last hair on top of horse emblem) I took a couple measurements from different spots to make sure I had center (Do the start of the hood and the middle, its not square remember) Depending on your gap, I’m going to go off of the gaps I did, I think that I chose a good gapping. When you find exact center, pick whatever side you want to start with, measure 1/4″ to the right and left and that’s where the edge of the stripes will be (that gives you your 1/2″ spacing) Mark these spots with at least 4″ of tape so when you put the stripes on, the edge of the stripes should line up with the edge of the tape. I put 3 pieces of about 4″ up the hood, this gives you a line to go off of so the stripes are straight.

5.) Now you have the measure for the length of the stripe. I went from the honeycomb that’s in the hood scoop down the the end of the hood, plus 1″, its about a 28 1/2″ cut. Make sure to cut it straight, flip the decal over and mark a straight line on the back, and cut it. Now add the dish detergent to the spray bottle, a lot goes a LONG way, its the best stuff to use, slimy and it makes it easy to work with the decal. Spray the area that the decal is going on the car and SPRAY YOUR FINGERS, keep your fingers wet or the decal will not want to stick with your oil hands touching it, do not be afraid to soak the car with the soapy water, the decal will dry and stick. Have a friend peel the decal with THERE HANDS SOAPY also, as your peeling it spray the decal, DO NOT peel fast or hard because you will stretch the decal. MAKE SURE the decals sticky side does not touch itself, you do not want any wrinkles.

6.) Now the car is soapy, your fingers are, and the decal is, place the decal on the car, and you’ll see its easy to work with, position it with the edges lining up with your tape marks to get it close.

7.) Most times decal place will send you a plastic squeegee which I used and it worked great, BUT DO NOT TOUCH THE PLASTIC TO THE DECAL, IT WILL SCRATCH! Take electrical tape and tape the end that will touch the decal so its electric tape touching it NOT plastic, and BEFORE you start using the squeegee spray the top of the decal with soapy water also, prevents scratches/streaks/rips.

8.) Now the decal is lined up, once you start using the squeegee the decal will start sticking, make sure to get all bubbles out now, or you never will. I went from center of decal to the side to get bubbles out, make sure the decal is still lined up with the tape so that your straight. when doing the hood, slide the decal under the honeycomb scoop so that it looks like it keeps going under it, and at the end of the hood just push up against the decal so it looks like it goes under the hood

9.) Keep working with the same stripe until all bubbles are worked out and its straight, keep adding soap to the top of the decal if needed, the more the better, take your time it will be worth it, make sure its straight and bubble free before moving on. now do the other side.

10.) After that I moved on the the front bumper, this was the absolute hardest part. Remove front license plate. Find center and measure your length of cut, use tape again to keep the decal straight, about 11″ cut here. It is hard to get all bubble and wrinkles out of this one, use plenty of soap. Apply the decal shoving some of it under the (if you have mach 1 delete kit put it under black plastic part under horse, I forget the setup if you don’t have it but just make it so you don’t see any cuts) and some should go under the bumper so you don’t see the cut. Again this piece if very hard to make look good but keep using soap and keep working with it, this will take some time. You have to keep working with the stuff, trust me you can get all bubble and wrinkles out, use the squeegee carefully, NOT TO HARD. I didn’t do the little part where a mach 1 chin spoiler connects to. Now do the other side.

11.) Next I did the scoop, fairly easy. Measure from where the hood meets the scoop towards the rear of the car, and go to the end of the scoop, add 1″. Using all the soap like before apply decal, try and slide the decal under the scoop in the rear so it looks like the scoop is wrapped in the decal, and in the front tuck it up so you do not see the cut, about 18″ cut here. Make sure you find center also, with this one you can apply it and have a friend see if its lined up with the stripes on the front of the hood. Make sure its straight and bubble free.

12.) Now finish the hood, the little section in the back. About a 6.5″ cut here, remember to measure where you see the cut will be LONGEST. Here you will want to slide the stripe under the hood scoop, and put it down past the back of the hood, again to see no cuts! You don’t really have to measure here to be center, just apply it: Remember to use plenty of soap, the car, both sides of the decal, and your hands.

13.) Next I did the roof, this was the easiest part. Find the center, using the front window, get exact center and REMEMBER go 1/4″ to the right or left to leave spacing for the 1/2″ space because that should be center of the car, not the decal. Now find center of the rear of the roof using the rear window, (the roof isn’t square), use tape to mark. When taking length measurement, measure from rubber to rubber and add about 1″ because your going to slide the decal under the weather stripping so you do not see any cuts, that’s the key not to see any cuts at all. I think its about a 41 1/2″ cut, using soap on car, hands, and the decal, apply the decal, and work out the bubbles REMEMBERING to use soap on top the decal also, make sure your all lined up and make sure the slide the decal under the weather stripping on the front and rear. Notice the decal going under.

14.) 2 more pieces. I took the spoiler off to make the trunk easier, 4 -10mm nuts, takes 30 seconds to remove and makes life a little easier. Now find center of the trunk, remember don’t just go off of one measurement, do a couple to make sure your center. Now measure length, remember do the LONGEST part of the stripe as the measurement for your length, cut it long if you have to, you can always cut some off. Here you want to roll the decal under the trunk, and push the decal with a knife or something down where the 3rd brake light is, again to see no cuts.

15.) Put the spoiler back on and I didn’t find center here, I lined it up with the stripes on the trunk, and the key hole for the trunk is center so I made sure that was lined up also, the spoiler is a little tricky to do, use plenty soap here, and almost, if not completely wrap the spoiler, work with this one for a while, I had to to get all the bubbles out, make sure your straight and remove all bubbles. I had to cut a slice in the decal here to remove the bubbles so you might have to cut a slice or two in it, but now its not noticeable so you will be ok.

16.) If you got the pin striping, which I recommend getting, I didn’t like it to much without it, just have your friend hold the pinstripes while still using plenty of soap and water, apply it next to the stripes, making sure your 1/4″ away, its very easy to do this, apply it like you did the stripes, so you see no cuts, make sure your 1/4″ away the whole length, use plenty of soap so you can work with it, you can use your finger here to remove bubbles, i didn’t use the squeegee on the pin striping

17.) ALL DONE, wipe away all the soap, this is why it shouldn’t be in the sun because soap will sit on your car for a little while. Go back and make sure the decal hasn’t popped up anywhere, sometimes it wants to on the edges, just go back and make sure you got it all, if you reuse the squeegee, put MORE soapy water on the decal so you do not scratch it. Remember if you did one part and it didn’t want to stick, let it sit and go back to it, it will stick as it gets a little dryer. Also the decal will shrink a tad after completely dry, this is why you want plenty of decal. Hopefully your all lined up, and you shouldn’t see andy cuts, take your time, its not the easiest thing to do in some spots, but for under $50 it gives your car a whole new look. Be careful dealing with the decal, don’t wrinkle it or stretch it, use plenty soap on top so you do not scratch or streak it. Took me about 4.5-5 hours to complete.

Anymore questions just post or pm, ill be glad to answer, rather post it so everyone see’s the question and answer. Its hard to explain how to do it, hopefully this really helped, it almost took as long to right it up as it did to do the stripes. I have plenty pictures and can take more if anyone wants a picture of a certain spot, thanks for reading.

Found @ moddedmustangs.com
Written by: RC02GT

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How To Install Sub Frame Connectors on a Mustang

Mike — Mon, 26 Oct 2026 18:50:34 +0000

The purpose of sub-frame connectors are to stiffen up the chassis,reducing unwanted flex,and give you more predictable handling.

before we start,i’m using BBK bolt in sub-frame connectors.these are much better than none at all.Weld in full length sub frame connectors are the #1 choice for sub frames.i chose the BBK’s because i don’t know how to weld yet,and i prefer to do as much work myself as i can.the BBK’s can also be welded in,and at first i was going to have them welded after i bolted them up. i’ll see how they feel first before i make my decision.

——————————TOOL’S NEEDED————————————————
1-set BBK bolt in sub-frame connectors W/seat supports(#BBK2543-brothersperformance.com.$129.99,about $155 shipped in california)
1-jack
4-jack stand’s
1-drill
3-3/8 drill bit’s
1-hacksaw
1-3/8 ratchet
1-1/2 ratchet
1-1/4 ratchet
1-22mm combo wrench
1-9/16 combo wrench
1-long 1/2 extension
1-small 3/8 extension
1-18mm,1/2 deep socket
1-1/2,3/8 deep socket
1-11/16,3/8 socket
1-9/16,3/8 deep socket
1-9/16,3/8 standard socket
1-10mm,1/4 socket
1-small pair of pliers
1-small block of wood

STEP #1.
raise car, support on jack stands as level as possible with the suspension loaded.up front,place stand under control arm,at the spring pocket.

at rear,under axle tube as far at the end as you can get it.

should be level with the ground at these point’s(arrow’s.i measured at these point’s,and from the ground to the top of the wheel opening at both front and rear,before and after install.i got all the same measurement’s after i was done,so i ASSUME this is how your supposed to level everything.).

STEP #2.
we’ll need to unbolt the cat back exhaust to make room for the drill.were just going to unbolt everything and let it hang there,not totally remove the cat back.using the 3/8 ratchet,and 9/16 deep socket,remove the four nut’s connecting the cat back to the h-pipe.

next disconnect it from it’s rubber hanger,remove the little washer thingy with small pliers,and slide out of hanger.

STEP #3.
remove the h-pipe.first,with 1/4 ratchet and 10mm socket,loosen clamp at the air tube.

disconnect O2 sensors at both sides.(there are only two)

now with 22mm wrench,remove passenger side O2 sensor.

remove the four 18 mm nuts that connect the h-pipe to the headers.use your 1/2 ratchet,long extension,and 18 mm deep socket.disconnect rubber hangers at tranny crossmember.(passenger side shown,same for other side)
***one of my nut’s was frozen up,so i could not remove the h-pipe.i got it loose enough to move the h-pipe around.

STEP #4.
DRIVERS SIDE FRONT sub-frame install.
using two 11/16 nylon lock nut’s and your 3/8 ratchet w/11/16 socket,place sub frame connector on car,attaching at the seat support.snug nut’s up.

with slanted side to front of car.Drill holes,front first
A.with your jack and a small block of wood,apply pressure from below to bring sub frame connector as close to the frame as possible.
B.with the 3/8 drill bit.drill first hole,then place bolt in first hole.drill second hole.

C.now from under car.drill out the holes on the other side.(sorry,no pic)
D.after all hole’s are drilled,using supplied hardware.place large washer on bolt,slide bolt in from outside the frame rail,place split lock washer first,followed by the nut.tighten everything up using your 3/8 ratchet,9/16 standard socket,and 9/16 wrench.thats it for the front,lets move to the rear.

STEP #5.
DRIVERS SIDE REAR.
same procedure as front.
A.place jack w/wood under sub frame connector,apply pressure.
B.using drill w/3/8 bit,drill out the two outer holes.go slow and apply even,medium pressure.there’s a lot of metal to go through here.take your time.change drill bit as necessary.
***you will be drilling at an angle,it’s O.K.when we drill the other holes from under the car,use the drill to line up all the holes.

C.from under car,drill inner holes.with drill,go all the way through to outer holes to clean them up and line up the holes.

D.install bolt’s.from outside frame rail,slide large washer onto bolt,insert in hole,place split lock washer on bolt,finally the nut.with 3/8 ratchet,9/6 standard socket and 9/16 wrench,tighten everything up.

E.with hacksaw,cut off excess threaded portion of bolt,as you can see it’s a tight fit(in hindsight,i guess i could have installed the bolt in the other direction and skipped this step)

STEP #6.
PASSANGER SIDE sub frame install.
***********repeat drivers side procedures for passenger side************

STEP #7.
after passenger side sub frame connector is all buttoned up,reinstall h-pipe.snug up four,18 mm nuts,reconnect h-pipe to rubber hangers at tranny crossmember.tighten up the four,18 mm nut’s

connect air tube,tighten 10 mm nut at clamp.

reinstall passenger side O2 sensor.tighten with 22 mm wrench.

reconnect both O2 sensors.

reconnect your cat back,snug up the four 9/16 nut’s,but don’t tighten yet.

place cat back in rubber hanger,reinstall the washer thingy.

adjust your tailpipes.make sure they are even at the bumper.also ensure they are not touching the body anywhere under the car.

tighten up cat back to h-pipe nut’s

go over everything,make sure every thing is properly connected

tighten up all sub-frame connectors bolts.

STEP #8.
lower car.that’s it.when i drove the car home,it felt much more solid.also did not creak when making turns.

here are some pic’s of everything all buttoned up.

on the ground.

found @ http://www.stangnet.com

The post How To Install Sub Frame Connectors on a Mustang appeared first on Mike Ford Mustang.

How to install a Rear Sway Bar on a Mustang V6

Mike — Mon, 26 Oct 2026 18:50:34 +0000

The last year Ford put a rear sway bar on a V6 Mustang was 1997. It’s an easy bolt-in job to add one to your 1998-03 V6 Mustang. Any rear sway bar from a 1979-03 Mustang or 1979-88 T-bird/Cougar will fit. The salvage yard I went to (All Mustang Recycling in Phoenix) had 21mm, 23mm, and 25mm rear sway bars in stock. They were all priced at $50.

This is a 25.4mm (1 inch) rear swaybar. I’ll put it on the back of my car, and then replace the stock 25mm front swaybar with a 27mm (1.06″) bar from a Mustang GT.

If you get a used sway bar, be sure to ask for the four bolts and U-nuts used to mount it to the car. If you buy a new (aftermarket) sway bar, you will have to buy these hardware items separately.

Four grade 8 hex head bolts, 1-3/4″ long, 3/8″ coarse thread. (grade 8 bolts usually have six radial lines on the hex cap as shown above).
Either four U-nuts (Ford part number N811481S436) or four 3/8″ coarse thread nuts.

People who who use the standard nuts find that they occasionally come loose and need to be tightened. You won’t have that problem with U-nuts. They are made of spring steel and act like lockwashers.

Look into the wheel well and you will see the lower control arms. You’ll have to remove the bolt that holds the emergency brake cable hanger on both sides.

The sway bar ends (with U-nuts attached) slide up into the lower control arms from below and are bolted up from the outside. Be sure to re-attach the emergency brake cable hanger when you insert the rear bolt.

Torque the mounting bolts to 35 ft lbs, and you’re done.

Update – November 2003

The 25.4mm (1″) Cobra rear sway bars are known to sometimes break at the point where their shape transitions from round to square. That’s where mine broke in November 2003. It had been on my car for 20,000 miles. I replaced it with a 24mm (0.94″) rear bar off of a Mustang GT.

found @ http://www.miracerros.com

The post How to install a Rear Sway Bar on a Mustang V6 appeared first on Mike Ford Mustang.

1996 – 2004 Mustang Technical Service Bulletins

Mike — Mon, 26 Oct 2026 18:50:34 +0000

Technical Service Bulletin ID	Description
00-04-02	VIBRATION/SHAKEAT STEADY SPEED APPROXIMATELY 100 KM/H (62 MPH) VEHICLES WITH 3.8L ENGINE AND CONVERTIBLE TOP
00-09-01	LEAKTRANSMISSION FLUID LEAKS AT RADIATORVEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION AND TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER IN RADIATOR END TANK
00-09-04	NOISEPOPPING/CLUNKING HEARD WHILE PERFORMING A QUICK LANE CHANGE AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS AND/OR GOING UP AN INCLINE AT LOW SPEEDSCOBRA VEHICLES ONLY (DOES NOTINCLUDE COBRA R VEHICLES)
00-09-06	WINDSHIELD WIPERSFRONT WIPERS OPERATE WHILE SWITCH IS IN OFF POSITION
00-09-07	VIBRATION/SHAKEAT STEADY SPEED APPROXIMATELY 100 KM/H (62 MPH)VEHICLES WITH 4.6L ENGINE AND CONVERTIBLE TOP
00-18-03	COOLING SYSTEMCOOLANT LEAK FROM PASSENGER SIDE OF INTAKE MANIFOLD AT REAR CORNER OF HEADVEHICLES BUILT FROM 7/1/1998 THROUGH 6/30/2000VEHICLES WITH 4.6L 2V OR 5.4L 2V ENGINE ENGINE4.6L 2V OR 5.4L 2VCOOLANT LEAK FROM PASSENGER SIDE OF INTAKE MANIFOLD AT REAR CORNER OF HEADVEHICLES BUILT FROM 7/1/1998 THROUGH 6/30/2000
00-21-02	HOODHOOD REQUIRES EXCESSIVE EFFORT TO CLOSESERVICE TIPS
00-23-10	TRANSMISSIONFLUID IN-LINE FILTER KITREPEAT REPAIRS OF TRANSMISSIONSERVICE TIPS
01-01-09	DRIVEABILITYHESITATION WHEN COLDWITH NO DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTC) PRESENTVEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 4.6L ENGINE AND MANUAL TRANSMISSION
01-04-08	ENGINE3.8LOIL PUMP LIQUID INJECTION SEAL (LIS) GASKET SERVICE PROCEDUREMUSTANG VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 3.8L ENGINEVEHICLES PRODUCED 11/27/2000 THROUGH 6/30/2001SERVICE TIPS
01-05-08	NOISETICKING OR CLICKING FROM Article No.TRANSMISSIONHEARD IN 1ST GEAR ONLYVEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 4R70W AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ONLY TRANSMISSION4R70WTICKING OR CLICKING NOISE FROM TRANSMISSIONHEARD IN 1ST GEAR ONLYVEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 4R70W AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ONLY
01-06-02	PASSIVE ANTI THEFT SYSTEM (PATS)DIAGNOSTIC SERVICE TIPS
01-07-01	SUSPENSIONNOISESQUEAK FROM REAR SUSPENSION OVER BUMPSCOBRA MODELS ONLY NOISESQUEAK FROM REAR SUSPENSIONOVER BUMPSCOBRA MODELS ONLY
01-08-03	VIBRATIONFELT THROUGH SEAT, FLOOR AND/OR STEERING WHEEL AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS WHILE IN 4TH OR 5TH GEARCOBRA MODEL ONLY
01-09-07	DRIVEABILITYHO2S (HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR), CATALYST, AND FUEL SYSTEM MONITORSSERVICE TIPSOBD II VEHICLES ONLY
01-10-12	WIRINGWIRE HARNESS TERMINAL REPAIR KIT AND WIRE SPLICE PROCEDURE
01-12-03	DRIVEABILITYDETONATION OR SPARK KNOCK ON HEAVY ACCELERATIONMUSTANG BULLITT GT VEHICLES ONLY ENGINE4.6L 2 VALVEDETONATION OR SPARK KNOCK ON HEAVY ACCELERATIONMUSTANG BULLITT GT VEHICLES ONLY
01-13-07	NOISECLUNK NOISE HEARD ON 2-1 DOWNSHIFT VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 4R70W AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION TRANSMISSION4R70WCLUNK NOISE HEARDFROM TRANSMISSION ON 2-1 DOWNSHIFT
01-15-06	CLIMATE CONTROLREPEAT HEATER CORE FAILURE COOLING SYSTEMREPEAT HEATER CORE FAILURE
01-17-04	BODYHOOD SCOOP LOOSE OR DETACHED FROM HOOD
01-21-06	ELECTRICALREVISED MECHANICAL HOOD LAMP SWITCH TO REPLACE OLD STYLE MERCURY HOOD LAMP SWITCH
01-21-10	ENGINE4.6LOIL LEAK FROM HEAD GASKET AREAROMEO BUILT ENGINES ONLY
01-21-13	DRIVEABILITYDIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTC) P0500, P1502 AND/OR U1039 CONTINENTAL MODELS ONLYSTICKING OR BINDING IGNITION LOCK CYLINDERHIGH EFFORT WHEN TURNING IGNITION SWITCH ELECTRICALSTICKING OR BINDING IGNITION LOCK CYLINDERHIGH EFFORT WHEN TURNING IGNITION SWITCH
01-23-05	TRANSMISSIONT-45 MANUAL TRANSMISSIONSTUCK IN REVERSEDIFFICULT TO SHIFT INTO REVERSEPOPS OUT OF REVERSE
01-24-06	ENGINEENGINE OIL SYSTEM PRIMING PROCEDURESSERVICE TIPS
02-02-02	COOLANTCOOLANT SEEPAGE AT INTAKE MANIFOLD CROSS-OVERVEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 4.6L 2V ENGINE ONLY ENGINE4.6L 2VCOOLANT SEEPAGE AT INTAKE MANIFOLD CROSS-OVER
02-05-04	ENGINE4.6LFRONT END ACCESSORY DRIVE (FEAD) BELT SLIPS OFF WATER PUMP PULLEY WHEN SPLASHED WITH WATER
02-06-07	PAINTMYSTIC COBRAREPAIR MATERIAL REQUEST PROCESSSVT MUSTANG COBRA ONLY
02-11-04	ENGINENEW GASKET REMOVER/CLEANER AND SERVICE TIPS FOR ALUMINUM HEADS AND BLOCKS
02-16-04	FUEL SYSTEMFUEL PUMP WHINING/BUZZING NOISE COMES THROUGH ENTERTAINMENT OR TWO-WAY RADIO SPEAKER RADIOENTERTAINMENT OR TWO-WAY COMMUNICATIONWHINING/BUZZING NOISEIN SPEAKERS CAUSED BY FUEL PUMP NOISEWHINING/BUZZINGCOMES THROUGH SPEAKERS OF ENTERTAINMENT OR TWO-WAY RADIO
02-17-02	ENGINEOIL LEAK FROM POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION (PCV) VALVE AREAVEHICLES BUILT BEFORE 5/17/2002 EQUIPPED WITH 4.6L 2V ENGINE ONLY
02-17-06	LAMPBRAKEINADVERTENT DISABLING OF BRAKE SHIFT INTERLOCK
02-17-08	NOISEWIND NOISE FROM THE A PILLAR AREA
02-21-13	ENGINESTRAIGHTEDGE PROCEDURE FOR CHECKING CYLINDER HEAD AND BLOCK FLATNESS
02-22-01	DRIVEABILITYSURGE/ROLLING IDLEGEAR DRIVEN SYNCHRONIZERSINCORRECT INSTALLATIONCAMSHAFT POSITIONSYNCHRONIZER (CMP) INSTALLATION TOOL CORRECT APPLICATION ENGINEGEAR DRIVEN SYNCHRONIZERSINCORRECT INSTALLATIONCAMSHAFT POSITION SYNCHRONIZER (CMP) INSTALLATION TOOL CORRECT APPLICATION
02-23-03	DRIVEABILITYFUEL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE (SCHRADER VALVE) DISCONTINUED ENGINE3.0L/3.8L/4.6LFUEL PRESSURE RELIEFVALVE (SCHRADER VALVE) DISCONTINUED
02-23-04	DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC)P1635 AND/OR P1639 PRESENT AFTER POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM) OR INSTRUMENTCLUSTER REPLACEMENTGASOLINE ENGINE VEHICLES ONLY LAMP4X4 LAMP ILLUMINATED AFTER POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM) OR INSTRUMENT CLUSTER REPLACEMENTGASOLINE ENGINE VEHICLES ONLY SPEEDOMETERINACCURATE AND/OR INOPERATIVE AFTER POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM) OR INSTRUMENT CLUSTER REPLACEMENTGASOLINE ENGINE VEHICLES ONLY
03-01-05	TRIMPASSENGER SEAT RUBS AGAINST DOOR PANEL
03-03-06	SUSPENSIONDRIFT OR PULL TO RIGHT OR LEFTMUSTANG COBRA MODELS ONLY
03-06-02	ENGINECYLINDER HEAD DECK LEAK4.6 AND 5.4L ENGINESNEW SERVICE-ONLY GASKET AND CYLINDER HEAD KITS AVAILABILITY
03-09-05	SUSPENSIONCLUNK OR POP NOISE FROM REAR SUSPENSIONMUSTANG COBRA ONLYSERVICE TIPS NOISECLUNK OR POP NOISE FROM REARSUSPENSIONMUSTANG COBRA ONLYSERVICE TIPS
03-11-04	ENGINEMUSTANG COBRATICK NOISE FROM ENGINECOBRA VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH ENGINES BUILT BEFORE 11/1/2002 ONLY
03-18-01	ELECTRICALREMOTE KEYLESS ENTRY (RKE)SERVICE TIPS
03-20-03	DRIVEABILITYMALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) ILLUMINATED WITH DTCS P0442, P0455, P0456, P0457, P1442 OR CHECK FUEL CAP LAMP ILLUMINATED WITH DTC P0457
03-22-01	BODYNOISEHOOD SCOOP (SHAKER) RATTLE NOISE ENGINENOISEHOOD SCOOP (SHAKER) RATTLE NOISE NOISEHOOD SCOOP (SHAKER) RATTLE NOISE
03-23-02	BODYMIRROREXTERIOR MIRROR GLASS AND MOTOR REPLACEMENTSERVICE TIPS
03-24-03	TRANSMISSIONAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION GEAR SELECTOR LEVER STUCK IN PARK, UNABLE TO SHIFT INTO PARKOVERDRIVE FUNCTION INOPERATIVE
03-25-05	PAINTPIN HOLES AND/OR PAINT DELAMINATIONON VEHICLE HOODVEHICLES BUILT 6/1/2001 THROUGH 3/1/2003 ONLY
03-25-06	ENGINEROMEO BUILT 4.6L 2VTICK NOISE FROM ENGINEENGINES BUILT BEFORE 9/17/2003
04-01-02	BODYINTERIOR TRIMHEADLINER SAGGING IN REAR
04-05-03	CLIMATE CONTROLRATTLE NOISE FROM INSTRUMENT PANEL VENTSDIFFICULT TO ADJUST NOISECLIMATE CONTROLRATTLE NOISEFROM INSTRUMENT PANEL VENTSDIFFICULT TO ADJUST
04-11-01	DRIVEABILITYSTREAMLINED DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE FOR VEHICLES WITH MIL ON AND DTCS P0401, P0402, P1400 OR P1401ADDITIONAL SYMPTOMS MAY INCLUDE RUNS ROUGH, LACKS POWER, SURGE, POOR FUEL ECONOMY
04-13-04	TRANSMISSION RATTLE NOISE OR DIFFICULT TO SHIFTTREMEC T56 6 SPEED MANUAL
04-15-06	TR3650 MANUAL TRANSMISSIONJUMPS OUT OF GEAR 2ND AND/OR 3RDCLASH NOISE AND/OR RASPY FEEL ON GEAR ENGAGEMENT
04-17-04	MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) ILLUMINATEDSYSTEM LEAN DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS)SERVICE TIPS
04-19-08	MANUAL TRANSMISSION HARD TO SHIFT INTO FIRST/REVERSE FROM A STOP
04-21-06	EXHAUST LEAKCRACKED OR SEPARATED RIGHT SIDE EXHAUST PIPE3.8L AND 3.9L ENGINES
04-24-03	LEATHER-WRAPPED STEERING WHEELLEATHER COMING LOOSE
04-24-05	REAR WINDOW DEFROSTER GRID/INTEGRAL ANTENNA DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIRTERMINAL TAB REPAIR
04-24-14	GENERAL PCM PROGRAMMING PROCEDURES
04-26-13	1-2 SHIFT CLASH, GRIND OR HARD TO SHIFTTR3650 5 SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION
05-03-10	SAFETY BELT WEB STOP BUTTON SERVICE
05-09-03	INTERIOR PLASTIC TRIMPAINT-TO-MATCH AND REPAIRINTERIOR SPRAY PAINT AND ADHESION PROMOTER USAGE INSTRUCTIONS
05-14-03	SQUEAK/CREAK NOISE FROM STEERING RACK WHEN TURNING
05-16-11	SAFETY BELT RETRACTION SPEED
05-22-08	WDS COP KIT DIAGNOSTIC TIPSCOIL ON PLUG (COP) IGNITION SYSTEMSENGINE MISFIRE OR ROUGH RUNNING
06-04-02	BATTERY SERVICEOPERATION OF BATTERY EYECHARGING SERVICE TIPS
06-04-04	LIMITED SLIP AXLE CHATTER, SHUDDER, BINDING SENSATION, OR VIBRATION DURING LOW SPEED TURNING MANEUVERS
06-04-09	A/C COMPRESSOR NOT OPERATIONAL / LOW FREONSHAFT SEAL LEAKS
06-05-13	ENGINE MISFIRE WITH DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305,P0306, P0307, P0308, AND P0316
06-08-05	SPEED CONTROL DIAGNOSTICSW/O SCP
06-14-04	MERCON ATF IS BEING REPLACED BY MERCON V ATF AS A SERVICE FLUID
06-15-08	KEYPAD DIAGNOSTICSDEALER INSTALLED ACCESSORY
06-18-16	IDENTIFYING THE CORRECT REPLACEMENT HEAD GASKET FOR CERTAIN REMANUFACTURED ENGINESSERVICE TIP
95-16-10	FLUIDNEW ROTUNDA FLUID CHANGERSERVICE TIP
95-21-01	SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEMAIR BAG MODULESDISCOLORED OR MARRED COVERSPAINTING RESTRICTIONS
96-03-14	NOISELIGHT CLICKING AND/OR GRINDING NOISEVEHICLES BUILT FROM 8/11/95 THROUGH 9/25/95 WITH T5OD MANUAL TRANSMISSION AND 3.8L ENGINE TRANSMISSIONMANUALT5OD3.8L ENGINELIGHT CLICKING AND/OR GRINDING NOISEVEHICLES BUILT FROM 8/11/95 THROUGH 9/25/95
96-04-06	COOLING SYSTEMCOOLANT LEAK FROM UPPER RADIATOR HOSEVEHICLES BUILT FROM 8/14/95 THROUGH 11/8/95 WITH 3.8L ENGINE LEAKSCOOLING SYSTEMCOOLANT LEAKFROM UPPER RADIATOR HOSEVEHICLES BUILTFROM 8/14/95 THROUGH 11/8/95 WITH 3.8LENGINE
96-06-05	TRANSMISSION4R70W#9 THRUST BEARINGSERVICE TIP
96-07-02	LOCKSNEW DESIGN LOCKSETS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ON CERTAIN TRIAL VEHICLESCARS REFERENCEDSERVICE TIP
96-07-11	TRANSMISSION4R70WSPECIAL SELECTION PROCEDURE FOR LOW SERVO PISTONSERVICE TIP TRANSMISSION4R70WUNIQUE CASE WITH LOW/REVERSE SPACERSERVICE TIP
96-10-06	NEW GENERATION STAR (NGS) TESTERINCORRECT INFORMATION DISPLAYED DURING DIAGNOSTIC MONITORING TEST RESULTSVEHICLES WITH ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS (OBD) II

96-10-07	FUELCALIFORNIA REFORMULATED GASOLINE (CARFG)SERVICE TIP
96-11-01	LOCKSINTRODUCTION OF NEW LOCK DESIGNSERVICE TIP
96-12-05	ANTI THEFTDIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURESSERVICE TIP
96-12-09	NOISECHATTER DURING TIGHT TURNS OR TURNS AFTER AN EXTENDED PERIOD OF HIGHWAY DRIVINGTRACTION-LOK DIFFERENTIAL7.5 AND 8.8 INCH RING GEAR REAR AXLES AXLENEW SERVICE KIT AVAILABLE FOR TRACTION-LOK DIFFERENTIAL7.5 AND 8.8 INCH RING GEAR AXLETRACTION-LOK DIFFERENTIAL7.5 AND 8.8 INCH RING GEARCHATTER NOISE DURING TIGHT TURNS OR TURNS AFTER AN EXTENDED PERIOD OF HIGHWAY DRIVING
96-14-08	ENGINENOISESQUEAL NOISE COMING FROM FEAD DURING COLD START AT TEMPERATURES BELOW -7 DEGREES C (20 DEGREES F)4.6L VEHICLES NOISESQUEAL DURING COLD START ATTEMPERATURES BELOW -7 DEGREES C (20 DEGREES F)FEAD IDLER PULLEY AND/OR FEAD TENSIONER ASSEMBLY4.6L VEHICLES
96-14-09	BELTFRONT END ACCESSORY DRIVE (FEAD) SQUEAL/HOOTDURING COLD START-UP AFTER COLD SOAK BELOW -18 DEGREES C (0 DEGREES F) NOISESQUEAL/HOOT FROM FRONT END ACCESSORY DRIVE (FEAD) AREADURING COLD START-UP AFTER COLD SOAK BELOW -18 DEGREES C (0 DEGREES F)
96-15-06	AIR CONDITIONING–FILTERING REFRIGERANT–SYSTEM FLUSHING–TRACER DYE–LEAK TESTING–O-RING TOOL–TSB REPLUBLICATION TO INCLUDE LATEST MODEL YEAR
96-16-01	SUSPENSIONFRONTRATTLE NOISEMOST NOTICEABLE IN COLD TEMPERATURESVEHICLES BUILT FROM 8/14/95 THROUGH 1/19/96 NOISERATTLE FROM FRONT SUSPENSION MOST NOTICEABLE IN COLD TEMPERATURES VEHICLES BUILT FROM 8/14/95 THROUGH 1/19/96
96-17-09	SUSPENSIONFRONTRATTLE NOISEMOST NOTICEABLE IN COLD TEMPERATURESVEHICLES BUILT FROM 8/14/95 THROUGH 1/19/96 NOISERATTLE FROM FRONT SUSPENSIONMOST NOTICEABLE IN COLD TEMPERATURES VEHICLES BUILT FROM 8/14/95 THROUGH 1/19/96
96-20-07	AIR CONDITIONINGNEW O-RING AVAILABILITY AND APPLICATIONSSERVICE TIP
96-20-08	AIR CONDITIONINGNEW O-RING APPLICATIONSTHICKER O-RINGS FOR SPRING LOCK FITTINGSSERVICE TIP AIR CONDITIONINGSPRING LOCK COUPLING CLEANING PROCEDURESERVICE TIP
96-22-05	MASS AIR FLOW SENSORREPLACEMENT AS AN ASSEMBLYSERVICE TIP
96-23-07	ENGINE3.8LOIL LEAK AT #4 FRONT COVER/WATER PUMP STUDVEHICLES BUILT THROUGH 1/10/96
96-24-06	WIRINGELECTRICAL DIODE IDENTIFICATION AND SERVICE REPLACEMENTS
96-24-09	TORQUE CONVERTERLEAK TEST PROCEDURESERVICE TIP
96-25-03	INTERIOR TRIMCENTER CONSOLEAVAILABILITY OF GAP HIDER FOR CENTER CONSOLEVEHICLES BUILT FROM 6/1/96
96-25-12	AIR CONDITIONINGAIR CONDITIONING SHUTS OFF IN HIGH AMBIENT TEMPERATURES AND VEHICLE MAY OVERHEAT4.6L AND GT OR COBRA COOLING SYSTEMOVERHEATING AND/OR VEHICLE GOING INTO THERMO PROTECTION MODEVEHICLES WITH 4.6L ENGINE AND GT OR COBRA
96-26-08	BLOWER MOTORINTERMITTENT OR INOPERATIVETEMPERATURES AT OR BELOW 0 96-26-8DEGREES C (32 DEGREES F)
96-26-12	TRANSAXLETORQUE CONVERTER REPLACEMENT GUIDELINES AND TORQUE CONVERTER/TRANSAXLE COOLING SYSTEMCLEANING PROCEDURESSERVICE TIP TRANSMISSIONTORQUE CONVERTER REPLACEMENT GUIDELINES AND TORQUE CONVERTER/TRANSMISSION COOLING SYSTEM CLEANING PROCEDURESSERVICE TIP
97-05-06	ODOMETERODOMETER AND TRIP METER STICKWILL NOT OPERATE AND/OR CLICKING NOISEVEHICLES BUILT 3/14/96 THROUGH 9/13/96 NOISECLICKING NOISE FROM ODOMETER OR TRIP METERINOPERATIVEVEHICLES BUILT 3/14/96 THROUGH 9/13/96
97-08-06	MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL)DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306, P0307,AND/OR P0308 STORED IN MEMORY LAMPMALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL)ILLUMINATESDIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES(DTCS) P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305,P0306, P0307, AND/OR P0308 STORED IN MEMORY
97-09-05	LONG CRANKSTICKING IDLE AIR CONTROL (IAC) VALVEVEHICLES BUILT FROM 11/1/94 THROUGH 3/30/96 STALLAFTER STARTING WHEN ENGINEALLOWED TO SOAK FROM 1-4 HOURSSTICKING IDLE AIR CONTROL (IAC) VALVEVEHICLES BUILT FROM 11/1/94 THROUGH 3/30/96
97-09-07	MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) ILLUMINATEDDIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306, P0307, P0308NO DRIVEABILITY CONCERNS4.6L 2V ENGINES ONLY LAMPMALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL)ILLUMINATEDDIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306, P0307, P0308NO DRIVEABILITY CONCERNS4.6L 2V ENGINES ONLY POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM) REPROGRAM4.6L 2V ENGINES ONLY
97-09-08	POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULEREPROGRAM POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)SERVICE PROCEDURESSERVICE TIP
97-10-04	ENGINE COOLING FANMODULE COMPONENT SERVICE INFORMATION COOLING FANMODULE COMPONENT SERVICE INFORMATION
97-10-05	AIR CONDITIONINGCOMPRESSOR FAILUREINSUFFICIENT AMOUNT OF REFRIGERANT OIL AIR CONDITIONINGLACK OF COOLING INSUFFICIENT AMOUNT OF REFRIGERANT OIL MAY CAUSE COMPRESSOR FAILURE
97-11-11	TRANSMISSION4R70WERRATIC OR PROLONGED 1-2 SHIFT TRANSMISSIONAODEERRATIC OR PROLONGED 1-2 SHIFT
97-15-05	AIR CONDITIONINGOIL REFILL CAPACITY CHARTSERVICE TIP
97-19-04	BRAKESBRAKE AND ROTOR SERVICE TIPS
97-21-10	TRANSMISSION4R70WNEW DESIGN ENHANCEMENTS FOR 1998 VEHICLES TRANSMISSION4R70WNEW ONE-WAY CLUTCH (OWC) TO SERVICE AT THE INTERMEDIATEPOSITION
97-22-01	DELTA PRESSURE FEEDBACK EGR (DPFE)DIAGNOSTIC TIPS
97-24-01	LEAKS WATERDURING HEAVY RAIN AND/OR WHEN GOING THROUGH CAR WASHCONVERTIBLE TOP VEHICLES ONLY
97-24-13	REMOTE KEYLESS ENTRY (RKE)DIAGNOSTIC SERVICE TIPS
97-24-15	LAMPLOW OIL INDICATOR LAMP ILLUMINATION4.6L VEHICLES OILLOW OIL INDICATOR LAMP ILLUMINATION 4.6L VEHICLES
97-25-05	BLOWER MOTORCHIRPING OR SQUEAKING FROM BLOWER MOTOR AT LOW SPEEDS NOISECHIRPING OR SQUEAKING FROM BLOWER MOTOR AT LOW SPEEDS
98-07-04	LEAKSOILAVAILABILITY OF NEW SILICONE GASKET AND SEALANT
98-12-05	AIR CONDITIONINGFILTERING REFRIGERANT Article No. AFTER A/C COMPRESSOR REPLACEMENT 98-12-5 SERVICE TIPS
98-17-18	MOULDINGSROCKER PANELLOOSE
98-20-10	EXHAUST SYSTEMLOOSE CATALYST OR MUFFLER HEAT SHIELDS NOISEBUZZING OR RATTLINGLOOSE CATALYST OR MUFFLER HEAT SHIELDS
98-20-18	FRONT END ACCESSORY DRIVE (FEAD) BELTBELT NOISE, DAMAGE, AND/OR BELT COMES OFFVEHICLES WITH 4.6L ENGINE AND MANUALTRANSMISSION
98-22-02	CLUTCHVIBRATION/NOISE FELT IN CLUTCH PEDAL WHEN LIGHTLY TOUCHING CLUTCH PEDAL
98-23-10	MASS AIR FLOW (MAF)SENSOR CONTAMINATIONSERVICE TIP
98-23-12	TRANSMISSION4R44EDIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) P0705, P0708, P1704 AND/OR P1705 STORED IN MEMORY TRANSMISSION4R55EDIAGNOSTIC TROUBLECODES (DTCS) P0705, P0708, P1704 AND/OR P1705 STORED IN MEMORY TRANSMISSION4R70WDIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) P0705, P0708, P1704 AND/OR P1705 STORED IN MEMORY TRANSMISSION5R55EDIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) P0705, P0708, P1704 AND/OR P1705 STORED IN MEMORY TRANSMISSIONAX4NDIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) P0705, P0708, P1704 AND/OR P1705 STORED IN MEMORY TRANSMISSIONAX4SDIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) P0705, P0708, P1704 AND/OR P1705 STORED IN MEMORY TRANSMISSIONE4ODDIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) P0705, P0708, P1704 AND/OR P1705 STORED IN MEMORY
98-25-03	GLASSFRONT WINDOW MAY TRAVEL BEYOND THE UPSTOP AND OUT OF THE GLASS RUN
99-02-03	WATER LEAKSWINDSHIELD SEALINGSERVICE TIP WINDSHIELDSEALINGSERVICE TIP
99-04-03	REPROGRAMMING POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULES (PCMS)OUT-OF-VEHICLEEEC V VEHICLES ONLY
99-08-15	INTERIOR TRIMDOOR TRIM PANEL REPLACEMENTSERVICE TIP
99-10-01	BODYDUST INTRUSION INTO LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT WATER LEAKEVIDENCE OF WATER LEAK INTO LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT NOISEEXCESSIVE ROAD NOISE HEARD FROM REAR WHEEL AREA
99-11-01	NOISETSB Special For Noise/Vibration/Harshness VIBRATIONTSB Special For Noise/Vibration/Harshness
99-14-07	CALIBRATION INFORMATIONVEHICLES BUILT THROUGH 1/29/1999APPLICABLE ENGINES ARE 2.0L, 2.5L, 3.0L, 3.4L, 3.8L, 4.0L, 4.2L, 4.6L, 5.0L, 5.4L, 6.8L, AND 7.3LSERVICE TIP
99-18-05	TRANSMISSION CONTROL INDICATOR LAMP (TCIL)TCIL ILLUMINATED WITH DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) P0782 STORED IN MEMORYVEHICLES BUILT BETWEEN 3/15/1997 AND 12/31/1998 AND WITH 4R70W TRANSMISSION TRANSMISSION4R70WDELAYED OR NO 2-3 UPSHIFTVEHICLES BUILT BETWEEN 3/15/1997 AND 12/31/1998
99-19-07	LAMPINTERMITTENT MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) ILLUMINATIONDIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) P0741, P0750, P0755, AND P1746 MAY BE STORED IN MEMORY VEHICLES BUILT FROM 8/1/1998 THROUGH 5/1/1999 WITH 4R70W TRANSMISSION LAMPINTERMITTENT TRANSMISSION CONTROL INDICATOR LAMP (TCIL) ILLUMINATIONDIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) P0741, P0750, P0755, AND P1746 MAY BE STORED IN MEMORYVEHICLES BUILT FROM 8/1/1998 THROUGH 5/1/1999 WITH 4R70W TRANSMISSION TRANSMISSION4R70WINTERMITTENT TRANSMISSION CONTROL INDICATOR LAMP (TCIL) ILLUMINATIONDIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) P0741, P0750, P0755, AND P1746 MAY BE STORED IN MEMORYVEHICLES BUILT FROM 8/1/1998 THROUGH 5/1/1999
99-20-07	COOLING SYSTEM3.8LUNDETERMINED LOSS OF COOLANT COOLING SYSTEM4.2LUNDETERMINED LOSSOF COOLANT ENGINE3.8LENGINE OIL CONTAMINATED WITHCOOLANT ENGINE4.2LENGINE OIL CONTAMINATED WITHCOOLANT
99-21-08	BODYCREAKING NOISE FROM LH REAR QUARTER AREACONVERTIBLES ONLY NOISECREAKING FROM LH REAR QUARTER AREACONVERTIBLES ONLY
99-22-05	CONVERTIBLE TOPIMPROPER FIT OF CONVERTIBLE TOP BOOT
99-22-06	NOISEPOPPING OR OIL CANNING NOISE FROM DRIVERS FOOTWELL AREA
99-23-04	MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL)DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) P0442 AND P0455NO DRIVEABILITY CONCERNS
99-24-02	LOCKSREPLACE AND/OR REPAIR ANY LOCK COMPONENTAVAILABILITY OF INDIVIDUAL LOCKS

Found @ http://www.stangnet.com

The post 1996 – 2004 Mustang Technical Service Bulletins appeared first on Mike Ford Mustang.

How To Install an X-Pipe on your Mustang

Mike — Mon, 26 Oct 2026 18:50:34 +0000

When you are working under your vehicle, make sure it is supported by secure jack stands. There is always accident reports indicating someone has perished because of working under a car that was only supported by the jack. Do not take any chances. If you do not feel 100% comfortable, then don’t do this!!

To get the best of both worlds with your naturally aspirated Mustang, you want the engine to breath in easier and exhale easier. After upgrading to a Cold Air Intake , I wanted to ensure that the exhaust was doing as well as the intake. The installation of a Bassani O/R X-pipe left us X-static , very X-cited , X-tremely satisfied and it was X-actly what we was hoping for.

Now I am not going to kid you here, the installation of the Bassani X-Pipe went well, but wasn’t without it’s little problems. This job is best done with the car on a full lift, but it can be pulled off on jacks, it just takes a little more patience and a lot more getting up and down.

The first step is to remove the existing stock H-pipe from the exhaust manifolds. Now Ford and their better ideas didn’t make it super easy to get at these manifold bolts, so I now have an appreciation for those who are trying to tighten header bolts. This pic is from below the driver side foot well looking up the converter to the manifold bolts.

The passenger side was a major pain in the butt and a swivel or universal socket is a must. This side is a flat mating flange as opposed to the flared fitting like the driver side.

We wanted to get X-cited again and decided to assemble the X-pipe to get a good look at what was in store for the installation. This pic shows the X-pipe pieced together before getting the front O2 sensors and before getting installed on the car. Be very careful removing the stock O2 sensors from the stock H-pipe and be even more careful not to cross thread them into the X-pipe.

The OEM H-pipe came out very easily. There is some bulk here, we are sure the X-Pipe shaved a couple of pounds.

Install the 2 fitted pipes separately to the manifold and leave them slightly loose so that you can jockey and shift them around when actually putting the X-Pipe on. Now for the X-Pipe. You don’t want any sag, so adjusted the tails up slightly for tightening. Shimmy here, wiggle there, check to make sure the clamps are on and we are off to the races.

Here is the X-Pipe all installed, O2 sensors tied off with MIL eliminators, clamps all tight, lets get the tires on and see what shakes.

found @ http://www.mustanghowto.com

The post How To Install an X-Pipe on your Mustang appeared first on Mike Ford Mustang.

Easy Mustang Modifications for Single Day Tuning Projects

Mike — Mon, 26 Oct 2026 18:50:34 +0000

Purchases through affiliate links may earn me a commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

If you’re an avid automotive tuner looking for a day project to keep you preoccupied with your Mustang all Saturday or Sunday long, you don’t want to end up with a project so small it only takes 15 minutes, or a project so big it can’t feasibly be completed in an entire day. Instead, you’ll need to find something that will take several concerted hours of effort including planning, setup, installation, and finalization/cleanup. Below, we’ve provided several suggestions for Mustang upgrade day projects, and you can select one that sounds like a fun time for an open weekend day.

So long as your Mustang is a little on the older side and has some dated halogen headlights, upgrading your pony car’s lighting system is an excellent choice. Bound to take at least several hours to complete, HID headlight installation on a Mustang requires more than just switching out one set of bulbs for another. You’ll have to install new HID ballasts, wiring harnesses, and other components in order to make xenon HID bulbs operate in a conventionally halogen-using lighting system, so don’t expect a plug and play installation. That being said, installing an HID kit is still a rather easy process, and though it may be somewhat time consuming just from the number of steps involved, it won’t be something you’ll run into huge trouble with and have to work on again another day. For brighter, longer lasting headlights, this is not a bad tradeoff.

Another major project you can take on and complete in a single day is a Mustang interior cabin revitalization. Perhaps one day you left your Mustang’s retractable convertible top down and it rained unexpectedly, causing the upholstery to soak and become smelly and mildew-laden. Or maybe you spilled some juice on the dashboard and stained it beyond repair. Either way, you’ll want to make sure your Mustang’s interior is every bit as nice as its exterior if you want your vehicle to maintain its value over time. If you can spare a day (or less), upgrading your entire vehicle’s interior should be manageable. If there are only surface-level stains on the seating upholstery, consider using aftermarket seat covers to subtly cover up those stains and create a classier look. If there are smells emanating from the fabric, however, it may be unwise to simply cover up the seats. So long as you have a set of spare seating components, you can install new racing seats or other seating replacements within several hours. Just be sure to strip out the current seats while leaving as much of the rest of the car’s interior setup intact. If the process ends up taking you too short a time and you still have hours to spare, you can always install a new car stereo system. Improved sound quality and selection is always something you can enjoy, and the new system can help increase your vehicle’s resale value as well.

Headlight Related Video & Posts

	How to equip an 87-93 mustang with HID’s
	How to make clear corner headlights for your Mustang
	How to install Cobra style headlights in your 94-98 Mustang
	How to equip your Mustangs Gauge Panel with LED lights

The post Easy Mustang Modifications for Single Day Tuning Projects appeared first on Mike Ford Mustang.

Long Tube Header Installation — Original Eric Jobe Guide

Mon, 26 Oct 2026 18:50:34 +0000

Purchases through affiliate links may earn me a commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

How to install long tube headers on a 99 – 04 Mustang GT

How-I-Did-It: L/T Header Install
Posted Jan 25, ’02
By Eric Jobe

BBK Long Tube Header Install on a 2001 GT

Before and After Dyno Results (.jpg, 74kb)
The results are in – increase of 20rwph and 15rwtq!!

Here are the steps I took to install BBK Long Tube Headers on my 2001 Mustang GT Bullitt. Following is the list of parts used, items needed for install, the steps involved, and a thorough description of each step. The nice part is the whole install can be done with common hand tools. Air tools could be used for a lot of the steps and they would make the job go faster, but I did the entire job with hand tools and little elbow grease.

Parts:

BBK Long Tube Headers
BBK Shorty H-pipe
Bassani Gaskets
O2 wiring harness extender
Hi-temp RTV Gasket sealer
Hi-temp thread locker

Tools:

Jack Stands (at least 2) and ramps. You could use 4 jack stands
Floor Jack. (2 is preferable, but could be done with 1)
Lug nut wrench and key for wheel locks
2X4 or 2X6 about 12″ long
Socket Wrenches (ratchet) (1/4″, 3/8″ ½”)
Sockets sized 8mm, 13mm, 15mm, 21mm, 24mm ( ¼”, 3/8″, ½”)
Deep Sockets sized 13mm, 15mm, 18mm (3/8″. ½”)
Socket Extensions 3″, 6″, 12″ (1/4″, 3/8″, 1/2″)

Open-end wrenches sized 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm
Open-end stubby wrench 13mm
Torx bit sized E8 (1/4″)
Large crescent wrench
Breaker Bar (½”)
Long screwdriver or prybar
Hammer
Pliers
Wire cutters (Dikes)
Dremel tool
Zip-ties
Coat hangers
Can or box for loose parts

Quick steps:
(Click on step for full description)

Jack car up and support on stands/ramps (loosen lug nuts on front rims first)
Remove front rims
Disconnect the battery
Remove rotors
Remove tie-rods from spindles
Remove sway bar end links
Remove struts from spindles
Remove ABS sensor from spindle
Remove Springs
Remove steering shaft
Remove steering rack
Remove rear g-load brace from K-member
Support the engine
Remove motor mount nuts
Remove K-member
Remove motor mounts
Remove X-pipe/H-pipe portion of exhaust system
Remove exhaust manifolds
Remove oil dipstick tube on driver’s side
Install new gaskets

Install headers
Install oil dipstick tube
Install motor mounts
Connect O2 Harness extensions
Install K-member
Install motor mount bolts
Install steering rack
Reattach steering shaft
Install G-load brace on K-member
Install Springs
Reattach ABS wiring harnesses
Reattach Struts to spindles
Reattach sway bar end links
Reattach tie-rod ends
Attach Calipers
Install new H-pipe to headers and cat-back
Attach rear O2 harness
Reconnect battery
Lower the car
Go for a test drive

The long description:

(Click thumbnails for full-sized image)
Support the car on some combination of jack stands and ramps. I chose to use ramps to support the rear of the car because I prefer not to have the car on 4 jackstands. Loosen the lug nuts on the front rims before raising the car to facilitate removing the rims once the car is jacked. Remove the front rims from the vehicle using a 13/16″ deep socket or lug wrench that came with the vehicle. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery using an 8mm socket or box-end wrench.

Remove the brake calipers from the spindles on both sides of the vehicle using a 15mm socket and a breaker bar to get the 2 bolts loose. Then use a standard socket wrench to finish removing the bolts. The calipers need to be hung out of the way using a coat hanger or a strong piece of wire. Use a coat hanger, doubled up, to support the caliper by running the wire through a hole in the strut tower and twisting the hanger around the top of the strut mount.	Brake Caliper Removed

Remove the rotors from both sides of the vehicle. There are 2 retaining clips on the rotor hat that have to be removed to get the rotor off. They can be spun off or simply cut with a pair of dikes. (They do not need to be reinstalled) I didn’t remove the rotors to do the following 5 steps on the drivers side, but later I removed them for weight reasons and it makes the following steps easier. This is why the pictures show the rotors in place when the springs are already removed. Remove the tie-rod ends from the spindles on both sides of the vehicle. First remove the cotter-pin holding the nut in place, then use an 18mm deep socket to remove the nut. Hammer on the top of the bolt after the nut is removed to drop the end joint out of the spindle. It helps to turn the wheel outward to gain access to the end joints. Remove sway bar end links on both sides of the vehicle using a 15mm deep socket on the nut and a 10mm open-end wrench on the link to prevent it from twisting. There is a flat spot in the middle of the link where the 10mm open-end wrench fits

Remove struts from spindles by placing a jack under the control arm to jack up the control arm to compress the spring. First, remove the bracket that holds the ABS sensor harness in place using a 24mm socket. Move the bracket out of the way. Then, using a 24mm socket and breaker bar on the nut and a 21mm socket on the bolt loosen the 2 bolts. Finish removing the 2 strut bolts holding the strut to the spindle with a socket wrench. Swing the strut out of the way. Hold the spindle in place until the ABS sensor can be removed to prevent damaging the sensor. (The procedure is the same for both driver and passenger sides.)

Remove ABS sensor from spindle using E8 Torx-bit and hang out of the way.

Remove the coil spring. Make a mark on the lower spring perch where the last coil ends. This allows the spring to be reinstalled in the same location. Slowly lower the jack under the control arm to allow the spring to expand. Allow the spring to expand to it’s fully uncompressed length. The spring will still be wedged in the spring perch. Push down on the lower control arm and extract the spring from it’s perch. Be very careful doing this!! Make sure all of the pressure is off of the spring before pushing down on the control arm. . (The procedure is the same for both driver and passenger sides.)

Remove the steering shaft nut from the bottom of the shaft where it connects to the steering box using a long extension and 13mm socket. Turning the steering wheel helps to expose the bolt. The bolt is accessed through a cutout in the K-member right behind the spring on the driver’s side or from underneath the car. Pull the shaft off of the steering box. The shaft is comprised of an inner and outer sleeve. The inner sleeve can be retracted into the outer sleeve when you pull it off of the steering box. Remove the steering rack from the front of the K-member using a 15mm socket on the 2 front bolts and an 18mm deep socket and extension on the 2 nuts on rear. Remove the long bolt assemblies. Pry the steering rack off of the K-member. This may take some force as the rubber bushings seem to sort of glue themselves to the K-member. Once the steering rack is pried away hang it from the sway bar using a coat hanger or zip-ties.

Remove the 2 bolts from the G-load brace on the rear of the K-member using a 15mm socket. This gives the access needed to place a jack under the vehicle and support the engine from the oil pan. Support the motor. Using a floor jack with a 2X6 about 12″ long on top of it, get under the vehicle and jack the board up directly under the oil pan until it is firmly against the pan. Use the floor jack with the handle pointing to the rear of the vehicle to make it easier to remove the K-member out the front of the car.

Remove the nut attaching the motor mount to the K-member using an 18mm socket and breaker bar with extensions to loosen the nut and finish with a socket wrench. The nut is located behind the spring in the K-member on each side of the vehicle. Remove the K-member. Support the K-member with a second jack or jack stands. Use a breaker bar with 18mm and 15mm sockets to loosen the 8 bolts that hold the K-member in place. Finish removing the bolts with a socket wrench. There are 2 bolts in the upper spring perch area on both sides of the vehicle. There are 2 bolts on each side underneath the vehicle in the rear portion of the K-member. Once all 8 of the bolts are removed, slowly lower the K-member away from the vehicle making sure it is not getting hung up on anything. After the K-member is dropped away get some help and move it aside and out of the way. This is a two person job. The K-member is heavy and awkward. After removing the K-member I added an additional support under the block for safety reasons. I added a 4X4 piece of wood with a 2X4 lying across the top of it under the front portion of the oil pan that was exposed after the removal of the K-member. A second jack or jackstand could have been used for this purpose.

Remove the motor mounts from the engine block using 15mm and 13mm deep sockets. The driver side motor mount has two ground straps attached to it with 15mm nuts. These need to be removed to access the 13mm nuts that hold the motor mount to the block. Each motor mount is held in place by 3 nuts. The passenger side has a bracket that holds the starter cables and it needs to be removed before the motor mount nuts can be accessed.

Remove H-pipe/X-pipe section of the exhaust using a combination of 13mm and 15mm deep sockets and 15mm box-end wrench. Remove the 2 nuts from the exhaust manifold studs on each side. Then remove the 4 nuts and bolts from the rear portion where it connects to the cat-back. Pull and wiggle the exhaust at the tail section until it comes free from the cat-back and then slide it off of the exhaust manifold studs. At this point swap the O2 sensors from the existing H/ X-pipe to the new shorty H/X-pipe. The rears are color coded so make sure they go into the correct side on the new pipe. Put a light coating of anti-seize on the 02 sensor threads before installing in the new H/X-pipe.

Remove exhaust manifolds using a 13mm deep socket and extensions. It is a straight shot to all 8 of the nuts holding the exhaust manifolds in place. Some of the studs may come out with the nuts, but they can be threaded right back in and be reused. The driver side manifold has the EGR fitting on the rear of the manifold that requires a large open-ended wrench or a large crescent wrench. Remove the nut from the EGR fitting and move the EGR tube out of the way. The exhaust manifolds slide right off of the studs after the nuts are removed. Remove the exhaust manifold gaskets if it they are not going to be reused.

Remove the oil dipstick tube using an 8mm socket. The oil dipstick tube on the drivers side of the vehicle needs to be removed before the new header can be installed. Pull the dipstick out of the tube and remove the nut holding the tube in place. Pull up on the tube and it comes out of the block. The tube goes into the block about 1 ½-2″. I found it was easier to remove the tube from the block and then pull it out from underneath the vehicle. Install new gaskets onto studs. I chose to use Bassani header gaskets when doing the install. They are very high quality copper and graphite gaskets that should prevent any exhaust leak from ever occurring. I looked at the stock gaskets and think these would be a better choice than the gaskets supplied by BBK if price is a consideration. The Bassani gaskets were less than $50 and are well worth the money if it means not having to try to replace gaskets down the road.

Install headers. A little note: it is a good idea to stuff a rag between the header pipes down by the collector before installing to prevent dropped nuts/bolts from getting wedged down by the collector. (it happened to me twice) Slide the header flange over the studs and gasket. Reattach the EGR tube on the driver’s side. This helps hold the header in place while the other bolts are being threaded on. Finger-tighten a few nuts while supporting the header to prevent it from falling back off. On the driver’s side the header tubes interfere with the two bottom rear studs. This requires the second stud in from the rear to be shaved down. Using a Dremel tool to cut off the portion of the stud without threads gives the necessary clearance. The rear stud can not be used at all. Use an 8mmX25mmX1.25 thread count bolt in the lower rear position. The BBK supplied 8mmX20mmX1.25 thread count bolt was to short when used with a lock washer, and Bassani gasket, which was thicker than stock gasket. Most of the nuts on the driver side header were easily accessible and could be tightened with a 13mm deep socket and long extensions. I used a 13mm open-end wrench to get to a couple of the top nuts. There was room to move the wrench through about a ¼- 1/2 of a turn. It was tedious but all nuts could be tightened fairly easily. Snug all the nuts down tight enough to squish the gasket and feel tight. Don’t try to tighten them as much as possible because it might strip the studs out of the block. I sort of did it by feel. The passenger side header required a little more finesse to get in. Loosen the mounting bolts on the A/C compressor a few turns to allow it to move out of the way enough to get the header flange to slide onto the studs. Lower the motor about 3 inches to allow access to the top two rear nuts on the passenger side. There is very little clearance between the header and frame rail on the passenger side. Tighten the top two rear nuts with a 13mm open-end wrench and a lot of patience. Using a 13mm stubby open-end wrench makes this easier. I used a standard 13mm open-end and could only turn the nut about an 1/8th of a turn each time because of interference from the valve cover. Make sure all nuts are tightened firmly enough to squish gasket and feel snug.

Install the oil dipstick tube by sliding it down from the top of the engine in between the 2nd and 3rd pipe from the left on the header. The tube will have to be bent slightly in order for it to clear the header flange. Remove the fuse box cover in the engine compartment to give the added clearance needed when sliding the tube back in place. Reinstall the retaining nut with an 8mm socket. Reinstall dipstick into tube. Install the motor mounts using 15 mm and 13mm deep sockets and extensions. Make sure the ground straps and wring harness brackets get reinstalled on their respective sides. Tighten down the nuts using the breaker bar for leverage. Connect the O2 sensor wiring harness extension to the connector on the rear of the block and O2 sensor at the header collector for each side. Zip-tie the wires away from the headers.

Install the K-member. Jack the engine back to its normal height or a little above. While still supporting the engine with the floor jack remove the extra support from the oil pan. Use a floor jack to raise the K-member back into the original position under the vehicle. Using 15mm and 18mm sockets reinstall the 8 bolts that hold the K-member in place. Use a breaker bar for extra leverage to tighten the bolts.

Install the motor mount bolts. Lower the engine down into position making sure the motor mounts line up properly. Using an 18mm socket and extension install the bolt that attaches the motor mount to the K-member. Finish by tightening with the breaker bar. Install steering rack. Cut the zip-ties holding the steering rack to the sway bar. Using 15mm socket and 18mm deep socket with extension reinstall the steering rack onto the K-member. Finish by tightening the bolts with the breaker bar. Reattach steering shaft. Slide the steering shaft over the fitting on the steering box and use a 13mm socket to tighten the retaining bolt. Install G-load brace using 15mm socket. Torque bolts down with breaker bar.

Install springs. Install the spring back into their perch by pushing down on the lower control arm and swinging them in top first. Make sure the springs are aligned with the pigtail in the same location it was prior to removing. Using a floor jack under the control arm, jack the control arm up to compress the spring. Procedure is the same for both sides

Reattach ABS sensor to spindle using E8 Torx-bit and a dab of hi-temp thread locker. Reattach struts to spindles using 21mm and 24mm sockets. Use a dab of hi-temp thread locker on the threads of the bolt and torque down with breaker bar. Reattach the ABS wiring harness bracket to the strut using a 24mm socket. Reattach sway bar end links using a 15mm deep socket and 10mm open-end wrench on the flat spot in the middle of the end link to keep the link from twisting. Tighten the nut until the bushings are slightly squished.

Reattach tie-rods to the spindle. Using an 18mm deep socket tighten the nut on the end joint. Tighten the nut until the end joint is pressure fit into the spindle back the nut off a quarter of a turn then snug it back up. Line up one of the slots in the nut with the hole that passes through the end joint and install the cotter-pin.

Attach rotors and calipers to spindle. . Slide the rotor onto the studs and then slide caliper over rotor and attach using 15mm socket. Put a dab of hi-temp thread locker on the bolts before installing on spindle. Torque the bolts up with the breaker bar to make sure they are tight. Put rims back on using lug wrench or 13/16″ deep socket and torque lug nuts down to 100 ft/lb. Install the shorty H/X-pipe to the headers and cat-back using a combination of an 18mm deep socket, 15mm deep socket and, 15mm box-end wrench. Put a bead of hi-temp RTV gasket maker on the h/x-pipe where it fits over the header flange to make sure this area seals up tightly. Fit the pipe up and loosely install the nuts on the studs at the header collector. Lift the rear of the pipe into position and install the bolts into the cat-back portion of the exhaust. Working back-and-forth, tighten up the nuts and bolts at each connection point until the ball fitting fits snuggly inside of the exhaust pipe. Doing this may require help from an assistant to push or pull on the h/x-pipe assembly so that it mates up with header flange. In my case the h-pipe need to be spread about an inch for it to mate up to the collector on the header properly. Attach rear O2 sensors to their respective connector on the tail of the transmission housing.

Reconnect negative terminal on battery using 8mm socket or box-end wrench. Close the hood and lower the car down off of the jack stands and ramps. Take the car for a test drive. Listen for exhaust leaks and rattles. Make sure the car drives straight and feels right. It may be necessary to take the car to get it aligned if the suspension was not installed in the exact same location. If it pulls to one side or the steering wheel is no longer straight I would recommend having and alignment shop do an alignment.

Its Done!

The above picture shows the finished product. Although there is not much to see in the photo, the headers fit cleanly in the compartment, and make a great modification. I will be getting another dyno soon and I will post the results.

Below is a short mpeg of the exhaust.

.mpg, 796kb

Write-up by Eric Jobe: http://www.fnsweet.com

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How To Install Bullitt Gauges on your Mustang

Mike — Mon, 26 Oct 2026 18:50:33 +0000

I didn’t show pulling the instrument cluster out because I had the extra cluster and decided not to pull mine out and put it right back in just for this. Sorry.

The hardest part is getting the headlight knob off. BEFORE DOING ANYTHING MAKE SURE YOU GAS TANK IS COMPLETELY FULL AND TAKE A PICTURE OF WHAT THE GUAGES ARE READING WHILE THE CAR IS IDLING AT FULL RUNNING TEMPERATURE, you’ll see why later in the post.

With the car idling Take a clear picture of what the gauges

Remove the cluster from the dash.

Once you have both clusters in front of you look at the back.

The pic below is the cluster from the back. you’ll see 6 Gold torx screws. Remove these.

Once they’re out you can pull the White cover off and this is what you’ll see.

This circuit board is just pushed down onto the studs sticking out of the back of the cluster. Gently pull up on the circuit board and it should slide off of them. The pics below is with the circuit board off, you can clearly see the posts it slides onto.

Just switch your stock GT circuit board onto the Bullitt cluster by pushing it down onto the studs until it’s seated firmly. Then put the White backing plate back on with the 6 torx screws.

You’re done with that part of it.

This next part is just for making sure that the gauges are reading properly:

Remove the clear lens from the front of the cluster.

Put the cluster back in the dash and hook up the connectors. DO NOT REPLACE ALL THE DASH PIECES YET

Now, hold the trip button down on the cluster while starting the car, keep holding it down until it says “test” in the digital readout, then let up on the button. This puts the cluster in diagnostic mode. Each time you press the trip button it will give you a different reading in the digital readout. Keep pressing it until you see “tach”, the rpm should be reading just to the right of it. With the car idling see if the gauge matches the digital reading. If so, you’re good. If not you can gently pry up on the needle and pull it off. Then put it back on so it reads the same as the digital readout.

Now, since you filled up you tank and took a picture before you started this, you can look at the pic and see if the fuel, temp and oil gauges are reading in the same spot. Make sure the car is idling at full running temperature, now compare those gauges now to what they were in the pic of the old cluster. If the are different, remove the needles and put them where they should be reading.

Once all of this is done and everything is good. Go ahead and put everything back together. You should be good to go.

AdRock. http://www.lonestarstangs.com/forum/install-bullit-guages-99-04-gt-38411.html

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How to Connect an iPod to the Mustang Mach 460 Factory Radio

Mike — Mon, 26 Oct 2026 18:50:33 +0000

Purchases through affiliate links may earn me a commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

I have a 2002 Ford Mustang GT with a Mach 460 6-Disc CD Changer. I’ll be hooking it up to my fourth generation 40GB iPod Photo.

To get the ball rolling, I purchased a Precision Ford Auxiliary Interface from Amazon. It adds two sets of composite audio jacks to the stereo. It comes with cables that simulate the additional CD changer. The other option would be a unit that actually lets you control the iPod via the stereo controls but I didn’t want that because when you have that you can’t use the iPod interface to choose songs. You’re limited to 6 preprogrammed playlists accessible via the stereo controls. I’d rather have the option of choosing exactly what songs I want to play.

There are various brands of these and you can buy them from a lot of different places.

I took lots of pictures along the way for two reasons. One, I wanted to have a reference of how to put everything back together. Secondly, in all my research I never found a good, detailed web page describing how to install the iPod adapter in a Mustang. I was prepared for a long battle but it ended up being a piece of cake. Even with me taking my time I was finished in an hour. I could probably redo it in a half hour or less now. Even if you know nothing about electrical systems or cars, don’t be a afraid of this one. It’s simple.

Before you get started, disconnect the ground wire from the battery. You’re going to be screwing around with a lot of plugs and wires and you don’t want anything to short out.

First unscrew the gear shift cap and set it aside. Now pull off the panel around the gear shift. There are four metal clips the will release as you work them out. Disconnect power to the cigarette lighter. There is a small tab to depress and then the connector will slide out. It helps to use a small screw driver to push in the tab while you pull out. Slide the boot and panel over the gear shift and set it aside. It helps at this point to put the car into second gear so the gear shift is out of the way. Now remove the panel around the radio and climate controls. Slide your fingers in the crack until you feel the tabs releasing. There are 6 tabs in all. Disconnect the cables from the fog lights, traction control, and rear defroster buttons in much the same way as the cigarette jack came out. Now you can set that panel aside as well. There are two 7mm screws along the bottom of the receiver that hold it in place. Remove those and the receiver will slide out.

The kit comes with two cables to connect to the stereo: CAS-F10 and CAS-F20. You’ll only use one depending on which version of the stereo you have. I used the CAS-F20 but your mileage may vary. Only one will fit so it’s not hard to figure out. For the F20, disconnect the two big plugs. There is a tab on the bottom that you depress before pulling the cable out. Insert those two plugs into the white female jacks on the F20 cable. Also you can connect the F10 plug at this time. Connect the two plugs on the other end of the F20 cable to the stereo. Push hard until you hear them click into place. Connect a cable to the AUX inputs (not included in the kit.) There is a hole behind the stereo that you can put the headphone jack through. It comes out near your right shin when you’re positioned for driving.

Reinsert the receiver part way into the dash just so it’s being held close to it’s proper place. Reconnect the ground to the battery and turn on the car. Check to see that your stereo and CD changer works as before. To use the AUX interface, hold down the CD button until it says DJ. The first AUX input is track 1 and the second AUX input is track 2. Play something on your iPod and you should be all set!

Since you disconnected the battery, all your stereo settings will be lost. It’s actually kind of fitting that your presets are gone. Who cares? You have an iPod now! Don’t forget to turn the speed sensitive volume back on. While the stereo is on, hold down the power button until the Speed Vol setting appears. Use the select arrows to bump it up to about 4. Release the power button and the radio will turn off. The next time you turn the radio on, the volume will use that setting.

This isn’t the end of the project but it’s the biggest hurdle. I now need to mount my iPod and get a charging system hooked up. I ordered a which holds the iPod in the cup holder. I also ordered a Belkin Auto Kit . It will charge the iPod from the cigarette lighter and also provide a line-out jack which has better quality sound than the headphone jack. It also has an adjustable amplifier so that you don’t have to turn up the stereo so high. I was originally going to mount the iPod onto the center vent so it would be at eye level. Doing it this way will allow me to hide the wires better. I’ll run the power to the power point inside the center console and just have the one dock cable appear from below the drivers seat to connect to the iPod. It should look very neat and tidy.

The cup holder and auto kit came in a few days ago. The cup holder fits in the front cup holder and holds the iPod in just about any position you want. It makes for a nice looking installation but I’m not sure if it’s really worth the money. You could just set it in the cup holder. It’s not like you can really be looking down to read it while you’re driving. I took out the armrest bucket this evening and installed the auto kit. Unplug the battery, remove the two screws from the bottom of the armrest bin (use a 7mm socket), pull it out and disconnect the power point. Drill a hole in the bottom of the bin big enough for the audio cable and auto kit to slide through. Reassemble and viola! It makes for a very professional looking installation. The audio cable runs under that console all the way from the radio into the bin and connects at the power point with the power jack. The dock connector cable runs back out the hole in the bottom of the bin and peeks out under the seat right by the cup holder. Plug in that cable and it all magically works.

The result is well worth it. It sounds great and now I have my entire music library with me wherever I go.

found @ http://www.studio711.com

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