The maintenance schedule calls for changing the fuel filter at 30,000 miles. This is a simple do it yourself item if you have the right tools. Should only take you about 30 minutes unless you start fiddle farting around and looking at how things are put together while under the car.

Tools needed

• New fuel filter PN Motorcraft PN FG-986B
• A 5/16th inch spring lock release tool
• Common screwdriver

Securely raise the rear of the vehicle. Either backup on ramps or use a jack and jack stands. The fuel filter is located almost directly above the differential. There is a schrader valve on the passenger side fuel rail with a black cap on it. The manual shows using a tool to release the fuel pressure here before changing the fuel filter. I was only able to get maybe 1 CC of fuel out of the valve.
The fuel lines have about a 1/2" round fitting on the end. Inside this fitting is a captured coiled spring, like a ball point pen spring bent into a circle. On the fuel filter is a ridge, one side tapered and the other side of the ridge is straight.
To install the filter you simply press the filter into the housing, and the tapered edge will allow the line to push the spring out of the way and click into place. Because the other side is straight it can not pull back out of the housing. Further into the housing is a set of o-rings that the filter end slips into. To remove the fuel filter you need to use the special tool. The tool slides along the fuel filter line and contacts the spring in the housing and pushes it out of the way. This allows you to remove the fuel filter. There is also a safety lock that holds the fuel filter and the line together. This keeps pressure on the lines so the spring lock is not constantly under pressure. First pry up the out side end of the safety lock and then swing the clip up and out. Take note how it tilts into place.
Insert the correct size tool, 5/16 on the fuel filter and slide it towards the outside. If they are the new single piece plastic ones they they are going to be tight and will take a little bit of work to get it to slide over the line the first time.
You will fill resistance when the tool meets the spring. You will feel it click when the spring releases. Once the tool clicks into place you can pull the fuel line away from the fuel filter. You can place a bucket underneath to catch the fuel, only a couple of ounces
Next I removed the clamp to have more room for the release tool to fit around the filter line. Then released the lock same as the other side.
Pull the filter out of the bracket. Check the ends of the fuel filter to make sure they are round and smooth and then push the tank side line onto the filter. The arrow on the filter should be pointing to the engine side of the fuel line. Push the filter into the bracket and slide the radiator clamp on. Push the other fuel line onto the filter. You will feel it click past the spring lock. Secure the radiator clamp. Install the safety locks by tilting the catch into and on the fuel filter line and push down and over the larger housing on the fuel line side. You can tell which goes on which because one is larger than the other. Larger goes to the outside on the housing.




That is it. I put the key to run and let the line pressurize and checked for leaks at the filter and at the schrader valve on the fuel rail also. Just in case you were wondering, those holes in the end of the mufflers are supposed to be there, to let water out, same with those little holes on the tail pipes also.

A few things you can not do like the old days.

• Crank on those little radiator clamps until rubber starts squirting through the slots.
• Put on that new see through glass filter so you can see the fuel flowing into the carburetor.
• Just for safety reasons, put on two of those little clamps so you can have twice the rubber squirting out.
• Cut the last 1/4 inch hose off because it is starting to crack.
• And last just get any old fuel filter as long as it is 5/16" fittings.

Found @ http://bullittarchive.com