How to make / build a Rear Seat Delete for a Mustang – DIY

How to make / build a Rear Seat Delete for a Mustang - DIY — photo 1

How to make / build a Rear Seat Delete for a Mustang – DIY

What you need:
1. 3…yes three 2×4 1/2 inch thick pieces of MDF
2. 80 Grit Sandpaper
3. 2 Heavy-duty hinges (from the cabinet isle…plan to install them reversed to hide them)
4. Clear primer/sealant for the MDF…the thing about cutting MDF that most people aren’t aware of is that by cutting it u are exposing untreated wood…being that this wood is gunna be in your car it will collect moisture..once this happens it starts to release fa-mal-da-hyde (sp?)…since its in a small enclosure (a car) its not good stuff to breathe in
5. 4 large home depot cardboard boxes to use as templates
6. 2 5″ Bolts
7. 4 Nuts
8. 2 Locking Washers and 2 Regular Washers
9. Mechanics Wire
10. 3/16″ Wooden Dowel
11. 10 1/2″ Wood Screws
12. Carpeting (I got mine at Best Buy. Ask the dudes in the car audio section for the carpeting, THEY’RE STASHING IT!)

First off in order to do this project, you need to take out your rear seat. Information on this can be had i believe in the bullitt archive, it is also in your handy Haynes.

After you have successfully ripped the useless rear seats out, you are ready to begin.
How to make / build a Rear Seat Delete for a Mustang - DIY — photo 1

The first step of this project is one of the longest and most grueling part of this whole thing. You are ready to begin to trace your templates! The way I did this was to cut the folding tabs off of the large cardboard boxes for you have and easier time working with cardboard instead of trying to cut a huge piece to fit. These I will call the “Small templates” These small templates are only for the arm rest or side areas. THERE IS NO NEED TO TRACE STRAIGHT LINES! Here Is what I am referring to:

How to make / build a Rear Seat Delete for a Mustang - DIY — photo 2

The way I accomplished making these templates is by using the mechanics wire, molding it to the interior trim as shown below:

How to make / build a Rear Seat Delete for a Mustang - DIY — photo 3

Once I did this I then copied the form onto the cardboard with a pencil. After I traced it I then cut it out with scissors/razor. Once I finished that I put it in the car for fitment. If it didn’t fit properly I would do the same thing again or adjust the form with my eyes by making pencil marks on the cardboard THEN tracing the updated form onto a new piece of cardboard, alternating back and fourth between the two pieces.

Eventually, I was satisfied with what I had and took proper measurements of the straight lines and then took the small templates to make the “Large template” which is the actual size piece that you will fit into your car, like so:
How to make / build a Rear Seat Delete for a Mustang - DIY — photo 4

How to make / build a Rear Seat Delete for a Mustang - DIY — photo 5

If your template is to your standards, trace it on to your MDF.
NOTE!!! The 2×4 piece of MDF is NOT long enough for the BENCH portion. Unfortunately it is two inches too short. The way to fix this is to take the third piece of MDF and cut off 4 inches of it and attach it to the other board. How I did this was I drilled three matching holes into the sides of both pieces. The side being the edge or thickness of the board. I then took the 3/16″ dowel and cut it into 3 much smaller pieces. I filled the holes with wood glue and put the dowels into the holes and merged the two pieces together.

After you have made this quick fix for the bench, trace your large bench template onto the longer MDF. Then cut it out! Bring it into the car and see if it fits. If it does, spray it with the sealant and set it aside.

How to make / build a Rear Seat Delete for a Mustang - DIY — photo 6

Repeat this same process (minus the extension part) to the back panel portion. This took me a little more time. Just have patience!

Once you have both pieces of MDF cut out AND sealed, you’re now ready to install the hinges.


If you plan on installing subs in your RSD, now is the time for you to make the proper measurements and cuts in the wood for them. (TIP: I traced the circles and drilled a hole in the wood as a starter for my jig saw blade)

If you are in fact cutting holes for subs, make sure to seal the newly exposed wood.

At this point you should install the RSD as it is now back into your car to see how it looks AND to mark off where you need to drill holes for securing the back to the car.

Next, take the panels out of your car and drill the proper holes for the bolts. Note: These holes will have to be drilled on a slight angle depending on how your back board is situated in the car. They should be drilled roughly here:

How to make / build a Rear Seat Delete for a Mustang - DIY — photo 7

After you have drilled the holes place the bolts through the board with the head of the bolt on the front side of the panel. The bolts will be covered up by the carpeting (If done my way)

Next, carpet! Carpet or upholstery your RSD however you would like. I chose sub box carpeting and used a staple gun to attach it to the wood. It may not be what you’re looking for but it does the job with out a sticky mess.

When done carpeting, place a nut on each bolt and run them all the way down. These will make for the stopping places of the back board when secured to the car.

Once you have mounted the RSD into the car, feed the bolts through the two holes (I will show you in two seconds). Now take your regular washers and locking washers and put them onto the bolts with the last two nuts. Tighten the nuts down and you have secured your back panel.

It should look something like this:

How to make / build a Rear Seat Delete for a Mustang - DIY — photo 8

If you have subs, now is the best time to install them after you’re finished with the RSD because you can reach into the back to tighten the nuts down via the sub holes. If you don’t have sub holes then you are gunna have to climb into your trunk to tighten everything down.

Final Note: If you can take out your rear seatbelts, PLEASE DO. They don’t serve any purpose anymore and it makes it look a lot better.

After a few days, a few beers, swear words and some nicks on the knuckles, you just might have something looking like this
How to make / build a Rear Seat Delete for a Mustang - DIY — photo 9

If you guys have any questions or need some pictures of something just ask me and ill run out and take them!

By: -=NightHawk=- found @ http://www.stangnet.com


21 Comments
  • Mike
    Posted at 19:16h, 10 July 2009 Reply

    Bench Installation

    How do you secure the bench part of the RSD? Is it bolted in somewhere?

  • sergei
    Posted at 06:45h, 23 July 2009 Reply

    rear seat delete

    i was building your rear seat delete. dont u need too box behind the rear pannel for the air volume of the subs

  • rd95stang
    Posted at 17:32h, 24 August 2009 Reply

    rear seat delete

    super sweet write up and awsome pics..

  • Alex
    Posted at 14:54h, 30 August 2009 Reply

    Bench Installation

    By for the best tutorial for a rear seat delete I have seen on the Internet. Any way I can buy your cardboard templates off you? (In the event that you still have them) (fingers crossed).

    • Mike
      Posted at 10:24h, 14 September 2009 Reply

      Sorry I do not have them

  • Craig
    Posted at 01:42h, 5 May 2010 Reply

    Nice tutorial…but.

    I’m thinking that the better way to solve the “not quite long enough MDF” situation, would be to make the bench portion into two separate pieces, and that way you could mount hinges to them separately and use the area underneath each side for storage/stowage.

  • rob merrill
    Posted at 15:12h, 3 August 2010 Reply

    rear seat delete

    im trying to build a rear seat delete for my 96 gt and having trouble how to bolt the bottom down any help would be very apprecciated thanks

    • Adrian
      Posted at 07:58h, 19 August 2010 Reply

      rear Seat delete

      To bolt the bottom down, just use a flush head, self tapping metal screw. The “hump” that is at the front of the bottom piece is just sheet steel, there is nothing on the underside of it to really get in the way. Use a couple self tapping metal screws to go right through the wood. They should be small enough and the same color of the carpet material you use so when secured, they are counter sunk into the wood, not visabile and most importanly, cant be felt.

      I did this and honestly you can stare right at them, and not see them at all

  • Adam
    Posted at 04:07h, 28 October 2010 Reply

    sub box

    for the back part of the RSD did you make an actual box for the sub or are they just sitting there with no box behind them? if so how did you and what would you recommend in doing so? thanks.

  • Pedro
    Posted at 01:22h, 13 June 2011 Reply

    MIddle bolts

    What did you do with the middle bolts to the seat bracket? Also what year is your mustang?

  • Nonya
    Posted at 11:30h, 8 November 2011 Reply

    What year?

    Decent writeup but it would be nice if you listed what years this mod is intended for.

    • Arron
      Posted at 01:55h, 24 June 2017 Reply

      Year

      This mod is for 1994-2004 year mustangs

  • David
    Posted at 18:57h, 19 November 2011 Reply

    rear seats

    Nice job i have a svt convert that iam doing the same to just a little diffrent . still yours gives me some more ideals to think about

    • Nick
      Posted at 09:58h, 13 February 2012 Reply

      Hello – Mustang

      Any idea how to build this in a vert ?

      Thanks,
      Nick

  • Jon
    Posted at 10:08h, 19 January 2012 Reply

    How much for a reproduction of this?

    I want this for my V6 Coupe 2007 – would you be able to reproduce this for a price so I can just attach the subs and go!?

  • Pedro
    Posted at 11:47h, 2 March 2012 Reply

    I had a problem with a bolt in the center of the bench. But it turned out to be a good thing because I used it for my grounding point for the amp. I also hinged the two pieces together and shaved the edges down to the bench part so I can use the bottom part. I installed two 12 inch speaker but they are creating air differential problems so I need to box out the back end.

  • isaac
    Posted at 20:44h, 17 September 2012 Reply

    subs

    can i see a pic of the trunk with those sub woofers in it, if u stiff have them, thank you

  • Darian
    Posted at 14:02h, 1 December 2012 Reply

    Mustang

    How much does it weigh at the end? Or how much does each board of mdf weigh ?

  • Alex
    Posted at 22:51h, 21 December 2012 Reply

    Rear seat sub set up in mustang

    Can u please send me a pic of what ur trunk looks like with those subs in there, I’m not sure if I’m supposed to build or put in some sort of box or wall to enclose the subs or if I sure just let them be as is. I would greatly a appreciate it. Thanks again for all ur help.

    Alex.

  • Joshua
    Posted at 23:00h, 19 January 2013 Reply

    Usable seats?

    Can I keep the bottom seats and seat belts so people could still sit and pad the backrest? Or when the backrests are out the bottom needs to come out to?

  • Nick
    Posted at 19:32h, 5 May 2013 Reply

    Bottom Board

    Where did you bolt down the bottom piece? and does anything rattle or move when your subs are hitting, or were those 2 bolts for the top enough?

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